Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Summer top tutorial

Another long time no post, I have been busy. Playing with my embroidery machine, continuing to eat better and I joined the GYM. Been going in the morning before everyone wakes up. Ok enough of me lol, He is the summer top.

 



Please note: all seams are sewn with 1/2" seam allowence unless noted otherwise.

Materials:
Quilters cotton type fabric. You want something light weight
1" elastic

I have a serger so I am able to finish all my seams. If you do not have one, you have a few options
1. zig zag
2. overlock stich
3. french seam

If you need any help with any of those please message me.

Lets get started. I prewash and dry all of my fabric on high and hot to take out all shrinkage and eliminate color bleeding.

Children grow at such different rates, so if possible try measure the childs chest, if not this chart should help

size charts:

Size
Nb
3m
6m
12m
18m
24m
chest
15
16
17
18
19
20
 
Size
2
3
4
5
6
7/8
chest
21
22
23
24
25
25.5-26.5

Size
10
12
14
16
chest
28
30
31.5
32.5

 FOr our bodice piece, but you piece as per the chart below:

Cutting measurements

Size
Nb
3m
6m
12m
18m
24m
Length
7
7.5
8
9
9.5
10
width
31
33
35
37
39
41

Size
2
3
4
5
6
7/8
Length
10
11
12
12.5
13
15
width
43
45 (2@22.5)
47(2@23.5)
48(2@24.5)
50(2@25.5)
52(2@26.5)

Size
10
12
14
16
Length
15
16.5
17.5
18
width
2@32
2@33

 Your ruffle measurements are as follows.

Ruffle measurements

Size
Nb
3M
6M
12M
18M
24M
Length
2@32
2@34
2@36
2@33
2@35
2@42
Width
3.5
3.5
3.5
3.5
4
4

SIZE
2
3
4
5
6
7/8
Length
2@44
3@31
3@32
3@33
3@34
3@35.5
Width
4.5
4.5
4.5
5
5
5

SIZE
10
12
14
16
Length
3@39                            
3@41
3@44
4@33
width
5.5
5.5
6
6

 

Straps, please cut as follows

For infant nb-24m

: 2@ 4x20

Toddler 2-4

  2@ 4x24

 Child 5-8

2@ 5x27

Teen  10-16

2@5x32

Cut one additional piece that is  3 x 6 for the back loop.
 
You should have 1 or 2 bodice pieces depending on the size you made, between 2-4 ruffle pieces, 2 straps and a back loop .
 
 
 
You are going to press your back loop and strap pieces in 1/2 long wise.

 
 
Then press the raw edges into the fold, so your piece is folded in 4's.


 
WE are going to sew the ruffle together so it is in one long round piece. With right sides together, using the finishing method of your choosing,  sew them into one continuous piece.


Here my ruffle is in one piece.
 

 
While you have your ruffle in front of you finish the bottom long side.
 


With right sides together sew the center back, or side seams of your bodice. Note larger sizes will be the only ones to have side seams.
 
 

 
Using the finisheing stitches of your choice, finishe the top edge of the bodice.
 

 
 Bodice piece turned right side out.



We are going to gather our ruffle along the edge we have not finished. There are many different methods to gathering. I prefer to use my serger. To do this I change my needle tension to 6-7 and my loopers to 3. (I have a brother 1034D) If you do not know how to gather please ask.
 
 
We are now going to attach the ruffle to the bodice. With right sides together evenly pin the ru
ruffle to the bodice.
 
 
Sew these together using your faborite technique.

 
Now you are going to use the presser foot as a guide and top stitch the back loop and both straps.  

 
See how purdy.



Now we are going to hem the ruffle, Since I have a serger I use that as a  guide for hemming. If you don t have a serger, then fold, pin, press and stitch the bottom hem up 1/2 inch.
 


We are going to topstitch the ruffle down. With the finished seam on the inside facing towards the bodice, use your presser foot as a guide and top stitch the ruffle.

 
It really does add a nice detail, I bet a cute little bow would make this top even more adorable.

 
*PLEASE NOTE, WHEN I FIRST MADE MY TESTER I TOOK PICTURES MEASURING THE CASING AT 1 INCH, YOU WILL NEED TO MEASURE YOURS AT 1.5 INCHES.
Folding the bodice top to the inside 1.5 inches, pin, and press this.
 
Stitch the casing being sure to leave an opening for the elastic. PLEASE NOTE YOUR CASING SHOULD MEASURE 1 1/4 INCHES NOT 3/4 AS SHOWN.
 

 
Cut your elastic per the chest measurement chart, or per the size you are using. Feed your elastic through your casing being sure not to twist .
 

 
Once you have fed it all the way around, over lap the ends buy approximately 1 inch.

 
Stitch them together using a zig zag stitch, I like to go back and forth at least 1x. 

 
I sewed my back loop on at the same time I close my casing. By folding the loop in half, match them. Over lap the ends of the loop and the finished stitches we sewed down from the casing to the center back. If your bodice is one piece simply center the loop over the center back seam. If your bodice 2 piece, fold in half matching the side seams. Mark the center front and center back. Over lap your loop by   1/4 inch. Sew.
 
 
Fold the loop upwards, hiding the raw edges and stitch.
 
 
Find your front center, if youv  have one bodice piece it is opposite the center back seam where we just sewed our back loop. If you have 2 bodice pieces you just marker it . Measure from the center front 1 inche to the left and right for infant nb-24m, 2 inches for toddler 2-4, 2.5 inches for child 5-8
3 inches from size 10 and up. Mark and attach your straps the same way we attached out back loop.


Fold your straps up, and top stitch them using 1/8" seam to the bodice top.
 
 

 
Fold the raw edges of your stap 1/4" 2x to hide the raw edges and sew.


 
 
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial, if you have any questions please ask. I hope to have a tutorial on how to change a plain pair of capri pants into ruffle pants to match your top.
 
 
THanks for Reading
Kristen :)